Strolling around college :)

Would take the metro station to college. And while the Park Street stop was also an option, I'd mainly opt for the 'Maidan' stop, as did most of the other college students.

Our major hangouts were the coffee-shops. Barista on Park Street was was my least favourite, Cafe Coffee Day on nearby Rawdon Street was quite nice, but our fave was the homely li'l Cafe Coffee Pai on Camac Street. So, I took Premankur here the time we were touring Park Street, and I tried out the yummy chocolate shake.

Gosh, their onion rings were to die for! :)

Right next to Coffee Pai was the Malgudi Junction - South Indian fare, with the best filter coffee in that area! And yes, I appreciated it all the more, after my Chennai stint! :)


Shakespeare Sarani used to be called Theatre Road. Unlike the other roads, though, which have horrendous modern names and gorgeous old names, this one has cuteness for both its names! Something divine about clubbing Shakespeare and 'sarani' (Bengali for 'road') together, and Theatre Road also sounds very... yummy. :) Anyhow, right at the junction of Theatre Road/ Shakespeare Sarani and Camac Street, you have the mall known only as Number 22, Camac Street. We used to hang out at the coffee shop here quite a lot too, and my fave was of course the Sizzling Brownie. :)


For a touch of traditional cuisine, Krishna's on Camac Street has some of the best north Indian sweets in Calcutta, all very attractively packed in their silver-blue matkas; and of course - the best puchka/ gol gappa/ paani puri is to be found right on your street corner. The guy down there is in front of Vardaan AC Market at Camac Street. (Taking a break from brisk business!)

Xaverians - Nihil Ultra :)

So, I spent twelve years of my life at this place, being brought up like a god missionary-trained boy. :) St Xaviers Collegiate School, Calcutta, was formed in 1860, and since then has become one of the best private schools in the city. Our nearest competitors are La Martinierre for Boys, whom we would call La Farts! :) Of course, they copied our uniforms and tried to be as cool as us - they were the brats, while we were the so-called 'gentlemen'. :)

Aa, and all the Jesuit priests! :) Father Boris D'santos, our strict Prefect and his cane - of which I got a couple of swipes now and then. :) And some of the teachers - AC, or s Chow, as we used to acll her, during my 9 and 10 standards, and Guha Roy during 11 and 12. :)

School had two gates, and the field was behind the main building, where the 'back gate' opened up, right next to the gymnasium (up there). While I now think the gym is full of old-world charm in it's porch-like look, I hated the place during my school years - that was where I huffed and pffed my way through horrendous exercises and calisthenics. And remember, I was a pudgy schoolboy. :)

Out through the back gate, and there was 'Delights', home of idlis and 'fountain pepsi'! And right next to it was the primary school - five years spent here. :)

Proud of our motto, proud of our badge,
Proud of our colours, proud of our flag.
Nihil Ultra, Nothing Beyond,
Be it in studies or on the playground...

So let's all give a lusty cheer
Fo'r our school so dear!
HURRAH!

Gosh, I don't remember any more of the anhthem, I'm afraid, and I haven't been able to find it online anywhere, which is a bit surprising!

Even further back on the timescale, there was Mongrace Montessori School, a stone's throw away from Xaviers. That was where I soent my fiurst schooling years, chubby as anything, and quite the prankster (I believe), and a penchant for pulling girls' pigtails! :) Of course, I didn't notice the beautiful old-world bungalow Mongrace is housed in, then!

... and the uildings oppsoite Mongrace are as ancient, it seems. Lovely old brick houses, with wooden shutters and verandahs spilling over onto the street, and tall iron gates... :)


And of course, the strangely vigilant Globe Detective Aency. I always thought how strange it was, that the seedy office was in a locale surrounded by schools. *grin*

New Town?

Suddenly, a lot seems to be happening in West Bengal. Why did I post a snap of the hoarding on top (and the ones below)? Well, because they seem to be symptomatic of a new resurgent Bengal. As any Bengali in his twenties will tell you, we grew up knowing that industry was leaving Calcutta. When we grew up, most industrial houses were relocating away due to the unionism and associated problems of a Communist government - the longest serving Communist government, elected for more than three decades! And somehow, in the last five years or so, the Red Guys seem to ahve woken up to the fact that agriculture and Marxism alone will not help the state.

So this is what you have: spiffy ad campaigns; closed door meetings with the captains of industry; reining in unions and granting land for SEZs. So there was on Singur and one Nandigram, but thankfully the government is not abandoning its policy. What's helped: the great IT boom and the great land boom.

So you have all these vast townships coming up on the northern and southern fringes of the main city. Places like Rajarhat and South City which were earlier just hamlets or even empty land, are suddenly teeming with skyscrapers and residential colonies.

And the mall culture is suddenly everywhere in Calcutta. When I left in 2001, there was just the Forum mall and 22 Camac Street (down there), the only two high profile mall addresses. Now, there are so many - springing up in all those new townships and even in new swanky addresses in the main city. Signs of a new resurgence? Indeed...


Perhaps the biggest sign of this, a rethink of Calcutta on India's consumer-map is the opening of Kentucky's Fried Chicken and McDonalds finally here. The fast food MNCs, much as we like to hate them, delayed opening shop in the city for years - so while Bangalore and Bombay saw multiple outlets, Calcutta saw none. When they finally opened, bang in uptown Park Street, it was interesting that these outlets have been the highest revenue earners for the MNCs in India. Calcuttans are clearly hungry! :)

But in a good way, as if to signal that the new Calcutta does not necessarily mean a break from the old, we have one of Park Street's oldest and most famous addresses due for a relaunch. The Skyroom is memorable for so many Indians, not just Calcuttans, who came here to dance and eat during the 60s and 70s. It was one of the most sought-after places to be seen at in those days, but then it fell to ruin due to (what else?) labour problems. The current owners however are opening the place all over again - and though the shutters are down today, you can hear the busy workers inside, working inexorably towards a brand new opening. :)

Howrah Bridge II

I love this snap - I think it is so... evocatively Calcutta! :)

The second Howrah Bridge, seen from Chowringhee Avenue, at dusk. Gorgeous.

Also strolled over to the race course grounds from Chowringhee, and took these snaps of the high fences.. and again, the second Howrah Bridge beyond the fences. :)

Nandan

Headed out to Nandan one fine evening, to catch a movie and take some random snaps. This place is supposed to be the heart of Calcutta cinema, anc CM Buddhadeb Bhattacharya is said to spend loads of his time here. Highly subsidized rates for a really great airconditioned hall and some excellent galleries, in addition to the Academy of Fine Arts, ensures that Nandan is packed with people at all hours of the day. :)


I mean, when you consider that you get BALCONY seats for Rs 50, you kinda think that Communism isn't all that bad, really! :)

Watchdogs!

The motto of Kolkata Police is "We Care". Not very original about it really, since even Delhi Police says something about "care", etc, but then we don't really know which came first. KP is Headquartered in its Lalbazar barracks, a lovely old red building. Sadly, I didn't go there and take snaps, so all I have is this information kiosk in front of the Birla Planetarium, and a potbellied Man in White at the Park Street-Russel Street junction.

Christian Park Street

The southern end of Park Street is where my college is. Right across the street is the Park Street police station in a gorgeous red brick building, very grand and very non-police-thana-like! :) That actually reminds me of the Colaba thana here in Bombay - with the same air of old-world charm and grandeur. :)

While I'm going to post some snaps of my old college soon, just a couple of steps away is the white house where the Bishop of Calcutta lives. And right next to it, is the chapter of the Seventh Day Adventist Church in Calcutta. :)

... And in case you thought that good Christians only go for gorgeous gothic buildings, think again and get prepared for the monstrous granite thing that is Assembly of God Church! :)


At the soutern end, you have the old Cemetery, a heritage site in its own right! This place has the funeral memorials/ monuments of some of the very first European inhabitants of the city, together with some notable people since then. Right in front, there's a huge plaque announcing that this is where the great Bengal Renaissance poet and teacher, Henry Louis Vivian Derozio, is buried.

Buladi says Goodbye

Bula-di is, or rather, was the West Bengal government's campaign face against HIV. The 2 year old campaign has been withdrawn now, owing to a paucity of funds, but it has had an amazing effect as far as enhancing knowledge of HIV and AIDS is concerned, in both urban and rural areas of the state. According to the WB State A Prevention and Control Society, around 9000 people have reportedly been infected by HIV since 1986, with another 4900 living with AIDS. The problem is: while the Buladi campaign will be taken off the billboards, the TV and radio slots, the government agency is not sure what its going to do next here. Ouch.

And, yes, while I was snapping pictures of Buladi on Park Street, Premankur was munching on a (hold your breath) date sandwich. I dunno about you, but I've never heard of a date sandwich! :) O, and he also does corn sandwiches. *grin* Corny boy.

Nostalgia on Park Street

Park Street has a special significance for me - as corny as that may sound. I spent 15 years of my life here in this area - first at school, then college after that. And a lot of afternoons ahve been spent at the Flury's building, either at the confectionary itself, or browsing at the MusicWorld storenext to it - which happens to be India's largest, by the way. :)


Up there is Park Mansions, at the Free School Street junction of Park Street.

Mansion Cricket

This old house is right opposite my college on Park Street. Not in the very best of condition, but it's still an amazing building. Very old world charm. :) And the kids playing cricket out in front added to the charm, I think. :) :)

Going, going... not yet gone!

Victor Brothers, in central Park Street, is one of Calcutta's most famous auction houses. This place has been here forever, it seems, dealing in everything from antique furniture and memorabilia to jewellery and art. So, of course, yours truly decided to 'strike a pose' - for the right price! :)


Of course, when I went there, the shutters of the auction house were down, but I managed to get some neat snaps through the black shutters and the musty glass. Some interesting snaps, I thought.

Rock n Roll!

I'm making that scary face because I'm about to devour a double-egg-couble-chicken kati roll at Park Street's famous Hot Kati Roll stall. It's about an eight inch long, three inch fat roll, wrapped in a greasy paratha, stuffed with egg, onions, capsicum, chillis, heaps of chicken, driping with all sorts of sauces, and tasting like apiece of spicy, sexy (fattening!) heaven. Nothing like Calcutta's greasy streetfood anywhere else in the cuntry! :)

Kusum Rolls, up there, is also infamous on Park Street. Right in front of the notorious Karnani Mansions, which is a reputed hell-hole of drug-addicts and pushers, pimps and hookers, this place attracts quite a good number of customers from the offices and colleges around Park Street.

Shutterbug on Park Street

Walking down Park Street, I'm like this li'l Jap tourist in my shades and camera. If we start straight from the tip of Park Street, where it connects with Chowringhee Avenue, there's the great big Warren's building, housing Warrens Travels since Donkey's Ears. This place has been functional since long before independence, and though it's got several other offices in the building now, Warren's is still a fantastic part of its history.

Right opposite Warren's, there's the Asiatic Society building. And if you consult the history books, you'll learn that the Society was formed many ages ago, in 1784 to be exact, and made it quite fashionable among the British and other Europeans to delve into 'Oriental' studies.

Nestled right next to the Asiatic Society, is the Family Book Shop. :) Very family-owned, and the same homely charm of Bombay's own Strand Book Store. :) Their stall is completely mobbed every year, during the annual Calcutta Book Fair.

Queens Mansion, opposite the Park Hotel, straddles a whole block, from the Russel Street junction. This gorgeous white building houses several offices, restaurants, stores, and even a posh saloon - A. N. John's. O, and of course, we mustn't forget the little stalls selling everything from imported chocolates and false perfumes, to cigarettes and condoms. :)


The Russel Street junction is also where you have the India Hobby Centre and BigMax - Calcutta's first brush with the burger, long before McDonald's set foot in the city. The BigMax burgers were amazing - humongously large, with loads of mayo and coleslaw, and you could never not get your hands dirty eating them! :) When they opened a Rollicks ice cream parlour here, they used to dish out the largest ice cream sundaes ever - with some cones balancing upto five scoops of ice cream precariously on top! And of course, every trip ended with me and my brother gazing longingly at all the toys and games exhibited in the store windows of the Hobby Centre, on our way out... and sometimes, lighter wallets for mum and dad. :)

Gosh, and the street has these great furnishing stores - probably much cheaper than Bombay, even though these places have been around here since forver! The Oriental Carpets gallery on top is practically an institution, and so is the Nu-built store, which always has the most antique wooden four-poster beds and ornate cupboards at the windows...

The Park

Welcome to the Park, Calcutta. One of Calcutta's most famous and earliest five-star hotels, the Park was also single-handedly responsible for introducing the pub/ discotheque culture to Cal. It's discotheque, Tantra, and pub, Some Place Else, are still one of the most rocking nightspots in the city. New entrants, like the ultra-posh lounge bar here, Roxy's, are carrying on the Park tradition. :)

Oops, and yes, at night, the loooong portico of the Park does have some pimps shuffling about, offering you 'college girls' - English Honours students are supposed to be the priciest, for whatever reason! :)

For some reason, they have these two idols of Karthik and Saraswati, in traditional dhhaaker shaaj, at the entrance of Tantra, all aglow in a weird blue light! :)

O, and if you come in the mornings, you can't miss the gigantic Oxford Book Store here, under the portico. Very expansive and very sexy, if you're a book-person. :)

Park Street Ragtag

Park Street has traditionally been the 'hot spot' of the city. The place where you have the rocking parties and the elegant restaurants, and the o-so posh Park Hotel. Just some of the grand old dames from a Park Street known for its neon lights and jazz strains...

Windmills of the Gods: Aa, but Sidney Sheldon is no more, and this is hardly gay Paree, but Moulin Rouge on Park Street is legendary for the Indian and Mughlai cuisine they serve. And their Chicken a-la Kiev is not too bad, either.

Once overhead, on a visit ages ago, two waiters discussing after the exit of a family eating nearby: "Madam khaatey rehta hain!" (madame just kept on eating!) :)


Kwality/ Quality - This was an old favourite of my entire family. This is where we used to come all the way from North Calcutta, to dine on Chicken Strogonoff and Chicken a-la Kiev. And when dad found out there was a Kwality's at both Delhi and Bombay, he was desperate to go there, too! :) Kwality's, housed under the Park Hotel building, is for old school Bengalis and Marwaris.
Chinese Cook Duck: As for Bar-B-Q, though the name suggests spare ribs, what you get here is impeccable Chinese food. This is one of the most famous Chinese haunts in the city - and even though they also opened a Indian cuisine extension, it never got as famous as its parent. :)

Sing a Song: Cuz that's what you hafta do, at Trinca's. This place is one of the last remaining restaurants on Pak Street which still have a live band playing at night, reminiscent of the rocking scene of the 70s. Mum and dad used to come here in thsoe days, to watch Usha Uthup and others perform here. And while Usha's not here anymore, the restaurant did get renovated recently, and the music still plays till late in the night here... :)

Star Track

The Indian Idol selections were going on at Calcutta, while I was there, and I tagged along with Premankur for his interview with judge Alisha Chinai. Also present were Udit Narayan and Anu Malik, both of whom insisted on hamming it up for the TV crews by singing in their nasal voices.

Aaa, but Alisha...!

Alisha's an Indian Idol!
Have completely loved her ever since she did 'Made in India' and it was great to actually see her in the flesh. She's called the Indian Madonna and all, so of course Premankur asked her about her 'reinvention techniques'. He started off with a silly "you're looking gorgeous today", that had her blushing and giggling, (even though her black harem pants with zippers and the big clunky boots were o-so-weird!), and then of course, our intrepid reporter proceeded to grill her about other matters... including the fact that she's now working with Anu Malik, against whom she had filed a Sexual Harassment charge in the 90s....!


Ooooo... gossip! :)

Chariots of Fire (?)

Something gorgeously Grand about a horse-carriage - even when it's a cheesy silver one at the Gateway. Well, Calcutta is also dotted with horse carriages. From the equally cheesy silver ones (they have swans snaking out from behind the passenger's seat!) that park at Rajabazar with their undernourished steeds, to the slightly more sedate ones that take families and kids for joyrides at the Maidan, around the Victoria Memorial. Like the one on top. :)

And, though I've never really clambered on one of them for a buggy ride, I've always found myself wishing I did. Guess I'm just too much of a silly embarrassed pansy to go on one by myself - now that would be silly, na?!

I loved this one, with the good ole Amby! :)

In the middle of Middleton Row

During my college/ school years, Middleton Row, that little patch of street behind Park Street, was mainly important for Loreto House and Loreto College. They were our sister school/ college, and there was all that fascination and swaggering bound to happen in an all-boy's school. Of course, the spire of the resident church at Loreto's - Saint Thomas - was also very impressive. but that impressed me only later on.

Went inside the chapel this time around and attended 4 pm mass. It's a small church, but very neatly done up, with very colourful paintings and murals on the walls. The service was actually conducted in indi - from the sermon to the hymns - and that was a bit of a surprise. Also, my HIndi sucks - big time. :)

Leaving the chapel, you're right in front of the old YWCA building, which also houses Golden Spoon restaurant. This place was quite afmous during the 70s for its rolls and biryanis, and mum says, she and dad were often to be founf here in thsoe days - yes, my dad was a Xaverian like me, and mum did college at Loreto! :)

And a short walk away from Golden Spoon brings you right over to Park Street - and the all-too famous Peter Cat near the junction. Peter Cat's chello kebabs are legendary! :)

Corporate Chowringhee

Chowringhee Avenue is also where Calcutta's Corporate Barons have their headquarters. And, over the years, they have also added to the fantastically grand skyline here:

Reliance House: Previously, it used to be the Reliance Industries building, but following the group split, it now houses the Calcutta chieftains of the Anil Dhurubhai Ambani Group.

Chatterjee International Centre: This used to be the tallest building in Calcutta some years ago - though the original 25 stories doesn't seem very much these days! - but is now pretty much considered unsafe. It was set up by Purnendu Chatterjee's TCG. The mosaic work on the building exterior is quite yummy, really. :)

Virginia House: That's where tobacco barons ITC rule from. :) It's a gorgeous old white building, in spotless condition.

Tata Steel Building: The company's multistoried skyscraper provides a fantastic contrast to the empty lot next door - which has this really ornate gate in front.

Kanak Building: The beautifully restored red brick building houses both Citigroup and Standard Chartered. It's currently under some more beautification/ renovation.

chowringhee road

Welcome to Chowringhee Avenue, or Jawaharlal Nehru Road as the Municipal papers and no one else calls it. :) This is arguably one of the first roads of Calcutta - not just a thoroughfare today, but pretty much 'the heart' of the city. And, yes, it has traffic snarls, now and then - but thanks to the brand new flyover, these have been reduced greatly.

Was walking down the road at dusk, and here are some of the sights that struck me -

Elliot Park: Inaugurated by CM Buddhadeb Bhattacharya, it's got your usual 'dancing fountains' at night, and a beautiful lake in the midde, surrounded by landscaped gardens.

Eden Over Maidan: Green expanse of the Maidan - often called Central Calcutta's 'lungs' - and way over on the other side, you can see the towering spotlights of the Eden Gardens Stadium. The maidan is dotted with cricket and football clubs, not to mention the usual lovers. :)

Three-in-one: The dome of the MP Birla Planetarium, in front of which the statue of Indira Gandhi bows - she has probably never looked this humble in her life! :) Far behind, to the right, you can see the spire of St Paul's Cathedral surfacing from the green cover.

Menagerie: Toy birds laid out on a white sheet in ront of one of the office buildings at Chowringhee.

The famous white pants: Premankur's pants - nicked from his mum. In white corduroy. He insists, his mum had men's pants made for herself. :)

Fly me to the moon...

So this time, I decided I absolutely must check out the Planetarium. I have the absolutely faintest memory of going inside and seeing the show, when I was tiny, and every time I passed the mouth of Theatre Road, where you can see that great big dome looming out of the foliage, I was always sorely tempted to go by. So I went ahead a day before with Premankur, checked out the show timing for the next day, and there I was, standing in line. Camera in tow. :)


For anyone not in the know, Calcutta's MP Birla Planetarium was built in 1962 - Asia's largest and first planetarium, and coming only a few years after the world's first in London. And thes days, apart from the shows and the lectures, the Planetarium also offers post graduate diploma courses and a M.Phil in astronomy.

Before entering the main exhibition hall, however (show tickets: Rs 30 for English, at 1.30 pm), I explored the gallery around it. It's got all these great charts and drawings and photographs, plus the mandatory gift shop, but what I found most interesting were the Hindu depictions of the planets. So I snapped up Earth (the Vishnu Varaha avatar rescuing Earth-mother Bhumi from the ocean-bed, as in the legends), and the red-skinned god of Mars. And yes, Mars is sitting on a goat. :)


AS for the mail hall itself - it's got this avst hemispherical domed ceiling, plush leather seating arranged in a circle around the centre of the room, where the projection equipment is. The rim of the walls has frescoes of the Calcutta city skyline, and this is an amazing touch, when the show delves on the Calcutta night sky. It's seriously a fantastic sight, when the dome gets pitch black, and covered in goregous twinkling stars, and when they etch out the constellations one by one.


Aa, but cameras are not allowed inside, when the show is on or about to start. I clicked the pic above surreptitiously, but put it away when the show started. As for the show itself, it wasn't too bad on the knowledge and the light-show fronts, but the droning voice of some Old Mother Hubbard-wannabe talking about the stars/ planets wasn't very engaging. And then, when she suddenly starts shouting in the middle of the show - "You were told to put off your mobile phones! Am I not speaking proper English? Why can't you do as you're told?!" - I burst out laughing at the Headmistress Act. :)

All in all, a fun afternooon.

Aurobindo Bhavan on Busy Theatre Road

I used to go to the Aurobindo Bhavan on Shakespeare Sarani (Theatre Road) for the children's library. Actually, my grandfather had suggested that I become a member there, once I hit class 5 and the school syllabus required me to come up with all those fancy 'projects' etc. So, while my brother had been a member at the British Council library across the street, it was li'l ole Aurobindo Bhavan for me. :)



Of course, the place is not about just the library! It's the focal point of the Aurobindo Society in Calcutta. The building is this really lovely old heritage structure, and also houses a theosophical library, an apiary, meditation centre, shop for handicrafts and tribal products, etc. It's an amazingly peaceful place, complete with twittering birds and huge palm fronds. Very nice if you want to be in a quiet place.


Yes, yes, I know the library seems like a mini-jail, with all the barred windows, but this is really the place where I discovered Enid Blyton and al the rest! :)

Fancy Fare at Russel Street

The Astor Hotel on Theatre Road has been one of the foremost authorities on posh Indian cuisine in Calcutta since Donkey's Ears. And yes, the lovely old red building is terribly soothing to lounge in. They have a beautiful pool right behind the boundary wall, and you can enjoy your kebabs there next to it. This time around, granny took us all out to the o-so fancy Calcutta Club, and the tandoori food there was catered by the Astor. Lipsmacking! :)

Ad, of course right there you also have the Kenilworth Hotel, in its sparkling white building, on Little Russel Street. We used to go there for Sunday buffet lunches - no wonder I used to weigh 77 kg in those days! :)

Go Fish!

Observe. The fisherman pants from the land of eternal sunshine, Goa. OK, so that was cornily put and those are pink pants (magenta!) which go around your butt and you draw the ends of the string together to put it all in one piece. Devilishly comfortable. Though the family hates it. I love the fisherman look.

Perfect for a nice lazy Sunday brunch, na?

(O, and yes, that;s my messy room, complete with 6 foot narcissistic mirror, loads of books and photo frames and painted mango crates with clothes inside.)

Fab Lighting

I'm a self-confessed Fabindia Freak. I've checked out all the Bombay outlets within habitational areas (cross the Mulund and Malad stores off the list, please!) and the super-sized dukaan in Delhi GK, and also the one at Connaught Place there. And, on my recent Calcutta trip, the newly opened Fabindia at Gariahat.

And I looooove the paper lanterns. Adore them, Lust after them. Stand for minutes there, twirling them and handling them, till the attendants look alarmed/ greedy. And I love seeing them in people's homes. :)